
When people talk about Antarctica and the vast beauty they are usually talking about the snow caped mountains, the sea ice formation, the glaciers and ice bergs. When you go home and people ask you what it is like down there, most people will talk about the penguins and the seals, or there trip to happy camper school where they slept outside. These are all great things about Antarctica that very few people get to experience, but when it comes to my experience on the ice. My favorite time to be here is during the storms. Antarctica is known for its legendary storms. They come without warning with hurricane force and they could last for weeks. I have worked in Antarctica for 2 summer seasons and I am currently in my second winter season. The best time of year is the changing of the seasons. The time between summer and winter and the time between winter and summer. Even fewer people get to experience this time of year because most of the people that come to Antarctica only stay for the summer season. So by the time they arrive it is already summer and when they leave it is not quite winter. During the summer months in McMurdo all the snow melts the temperature gets as high as +40degF, it is dirty from all the volcanic dust, to me its just not Antarctica.

Now that the summer has come to a close and the sun is starting to set, the temperatures are dropping and the snow is falling it has been beautiful and peaceful. Every morning the sunrise fills the sky and covers the mountains with pale pinks, purples and reds. Then every night the sun sets behind Mt. Discovery blanketing the sea ice and lighting the sky on fire with burning shades of orange and yellow. This is the beauty that is Antarctica this is the breathtaking view that you hear about and the pictures you see in National Geographic. This is what you come to Antarctica for, soon the sun will set and the Auroras will come out and dance across the sky, I am looking forward to this more than anything.

During these transition times between seasons it is not only when you get the most amazing views, it is also when you get those legendary storms. You will rarely get the big harsh storms during the dead of winter or the top of the summer, but it is possible. But now, this time of the year is when you get the ones you can write home about. At the beginning of the summer season this year I came down and worked here at McMurdo for a few months to help them get the station started up before I went to The South Pole for the season. I spent everyday during this time out on the Sea Ice and the Ross Ice Shelf setting up the airfields for the season. I had gotten stuck out at Pegasus Ice Runway 4 times in condition 1 - the worst level weather condition we have. There was one condition 1 that sticks out in my memory bank that I want to share with you.
I was out at the runway working inside on a generator trying to get the power back up after the wind had caused a black out. When I went into the building it was cloudy out and there was a little bit of wind but nothing crazy - condition 3. I was getting close to having power restored when I received a page stating that Pegasus was going to a condition 1. I thought to myself, these people are crazy I was outside less than an hour ago and it was fine. I walked outside to take a look and confirm that they were smoking crack, when I couldn't get the door open. I pushed and pushed and it wouldn't budge, at first I thought snow had piled up on the outside of the door, so I began to throw my self into the door to shock it open. The door all of a sudden opened and slammed shut

again right in my face. Ok, so I guess I know now that its not snow holding the door shut it was wind. I worked my way to the downwind end of the enclosure and began to disassemble and crawl through the intake louvers, by this time I am receiving page after page to report in to town. I finally am able to make it out of the building. As I walked out from behind the building towards my truck that was less than 10 ft from the building, I felt like I was being lifted up off the ground. I leaned forward into the wind at roughly a 45 degree angle and headed towards the truck when I began to realize I was unsure where the truck was. I kept one hand on the building as a reference and began to walk around to the side where the door was, once I arrived at the door I was able to point myself in the direction of the truck. at this point you cant hear the trucks engine that was running because the wind is so loud it sounds like someone is crinkling up paper next to your ear and blowing air into your ear continuously. You also cant see the truck, so you are nervous to let go of the building, there is a battle going on in your head on what to do. At that moment a small area about the size of a dinner plate cleared enough for me to see the light from the trucks headlights. I decided to let go of the building and walk towards it. I then realized that the truck was a lot closer than I thought it was. As I walked around to the driver side of the truck I ran into the same problem with the wind holding the door shut, I was finally able to pry the door open like peeling the top off a can of fruit. I got in the truck and the door slammed behind me. I got on the radio and reported in. The dispatcher then asks me

if I had restored power, I had to report no I had not restored it yet. I was then asked if I could make it to a building that had food and supplies in it. I just fought my way into the truck and now they want me to get back out? I told them I was fine in the truck for awhile and if I got a clearing I would go to the shelter. As I sat in the truck the wind was whipping past so fast the truck was shaking side to side vigorously. Have you ever been on a 2 lane highway and a big rig flies past you and your car shakes a bit? Imagine that but not stopping, the ice had build up so thick on the outsides of the windows you couldn't see out and the ice was starting to form on the inside. The trucks heater couldn't keep up with how fast the wind was taking the heat away from the engine. The fuel level was down towards a 1/4 of a tank. So I decided to make my way back out and to the shelter building, I pushed the door open and leaned into the wind, the visibility had increased enough to see outlines, but everything was still a flat white color. I walked around the front of the truck and fell face first as I ran right into a drift of snow that was waist high. This drift was not there earlier when I got in the truck. I continued on to the shelter building and made my way inside. There was no power or heat, but it was out of the elements and it had supplies and a couch to rest on. I waited out the storm and headed back in the first chance I got. This storm could have lasted for days or weeks, they have been known to do that in the past, but I was fortunate that it only lasted 4 hours and I was able to come on home.

So this place is absolutely phenomenal. It is by far the most amazing and life altering place you will ever be able to go. But just because the sunrise was beautiful, the winds were calm and the penguins were out that morning but that doesn't mean that she cant come back and unleash some hell on you in the afternoon. Its the storms here that make you remember that you are in the driest, coldest and most desolate place in the world. It is the frozen desert as Tim would say, this is Antarctica...